Posted on November 28, 2003

Removing of shifter knob for 4-speed automatic transmission

Changing of automatic shift knob, to certain people in Vwvortex community, is a taboo, or in a certain VW modification cult group, is socially unacceptable. Well, I must emphasized that such mentality only prevails in a small group of vwvortex'ers, fortunately.

Perhaps, the strong feeling against the act, is based on the assumption that anybody who attempt the modification is trying to be manual-stick wannabe. That to drive an automatic-transmission vehicle is a joke of century, at least to this unique group of interesting earth inhabitants. In the true spirit of Veedub modification culture, I am sure this is a fallible thinking.

Anyhow, not withstanding such a dark force, I decided to go ahead with the modification, although I am still in search for a well-styled aftermarket automatic shift knob.


1. Turn on the engine, and shift the gear to Neutral. In many versions of How-to guide, the instruction said D or gear 3 or 2. For 4-speed automatic transmission vehicle, it has
been verified that either of the modes mentioned is okay. This might not be the case if your vehicle is tiptronic transmission, and should stick to gear 3 as most has suggested.

2. Pull down the chrome sleeve that covers the shift shaft as shown on the left. This will unlock the gear, and the knob button will be loose.

3. Then press the knob button and pull out the knob with some amount of force.

If you inspect the shift rod closely, you notice that the only movable mechanism is the plastic rod that's contained within the shift rod. When you press the shift knob button (with the stock knob intact), it actually depresses the plastic rod, and mechanically unlock the gear during "P" and "N" position. Hence, one can conclude that for 4-speed automatic transmission vehicle, one can replace its stock shift knob with any universal aftermarket shift knob, since it does not have any tiptronic plate or overdrive mechanism.


Upon looking at the internal of the knob, you notice that there isn't any complicated mechanism in the knob button. The knob button basically will keep in contact with the tip of plastic rod when the knob is plug on the shift rod. The plastic cylindrical clip within the knob is designed to held and clamp on the shift rod tightly.

Tips: I realised that if the car is parked under scorch hot sun for a few hours, it will be easier to take out the shift knob. This is possibly because that the plastic clip inside the knob has expanded due to the heat, and hence make it easier to plug out the shift knob.

With the stock knob removed, I begin to hunt for a nice aftermarket automatic shift knob to replace, as my stock knob surface is starting to peel. I wanted to make sure that the DIY removal of stock knob is possible before I commit myself with a new aftermarket shift knob.

The hunt for the new shift knob is not easy. There's little market for automatic shift knob, and alot of nice shift knobs made by Rapid, Momo and Sparco are mostly for manual shift stick. I bump across OEM automatic shift knobs like those for Audi and Porsche, but they cost an arm (more than US$150). My choice was thus limited to the Momo automatic shift knob, as shown below.


4. Insert in the chrome cover bottom as shown in the picture.


5. Screw 2 allen nuts to the Momo shift knob such that they are flushed to the inner wall of the knob. The Momo shift knob comes with allen key and nuts, and the knob itself has 3 holes at the edge of the thread (as shown on the left photo) for one to screw the allen nut so that the knob can be firmly secured on the shifter shaft rod.


6. With the allen nuts in the knob, slot the knob into the shifter rod as shown on the left. Do not over-screw the allen nuts, otherwise the knob can not be inserted down the shifter rod.


7. With the knob sits nicely on the plastic shift unlock rod, turn the knob so that wording "MOMO" is aligned, and depress the knob slightly (not all the way round), and begin to screw the 2 allen nuts tightly. The reason of depressing the knob before screwing the nuts, is to have the knob as low as possible.


Knob is secured by 2 nuts, the 3rd allen nut is not required as it'll prevent the bottom chrome cover not able to cover the knob.


8. Screw in the chrome cover bottom, as shown.

and voila, a new aftermarket shift knob for my automatic gear transmission BORA.

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Anatomization of Brakeswitch .. after a shift lock error!

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It happened out of sudden, out of nowhere. I was referring to the incident where my shift gear was stucked at Park position, as I was trying to drive off to pick up my parents in-law. Darn, I was mumbling to myself, “I hope this is not a sympton of aging car”, as my dear bora is reaching its 3rd year birthday in a month time.

As a car-idiot, and having hear alot of horror stories about auto transmission problems and overhaul, I was quite nervous, given that the first sympton of the problem (stuck shifter) had some relation to transmission. Is this a beginning to the mirror history of my old peugeot, where mechanical & electrical issues cropped up one after another every month, as if they were well planned for. And … my last car problem related incident was flat battery a month ago.

With alittle panicky, I rang Autospritze’s Dennis and Heng. It was Sunday morning, and I guessed it was a little early for them, after a long 6 days of hectic work. I rang up Raymond subsequently, and while he was also unsure about the cause of the problem, he accurately suggested non-stop stepping of the brake pedal to get the shift gear out of the Park position. While doing so for few minutes, Autospritze’s Heng responded to my earlier SOS call. He was in Malaysia, he too suggested the same thing, and true enough, after some preservance and patience, I felt the shift gear was finally unlocked momentarily when the brake pedal was stepped. Not wanting to miss this “momentary” opportunity, I quickly shift the gear to Drive position, as fast as I can, just like how the cowboys would draw their gun in split seconds in those cowboy show!

Not wanting to get myself in the stucked position again, I pulled up my e-brake whenever I want to stop my car while the gear is in D mode. At this moment, Autospritze’s Dennis had also just waken up from his beauty sleep, and he suggested that I bring the car to his workshop for repair the next day, and from the sympton of the problem and workaround, we all suspected that the brake switch is faulty.

The function of brake switch is two fold. When a brake pedal is depressed, it triggers two thing via the brake switch, which sense the depression and power the brake light. It also triggers a shift gear unlock signal, so that the shift gear can be unlocked from its current position. It’s a safety feature in all automatic-transmission based vehicles, whereby the gear must not be able to shift freely from “N” and “P” position to other mode.

True enough, a replacement of a new brake switch solved the problem.
A further check with VWvortex via its search engine, using “brake switch” as the search key words, return numerous threads that articulate the same problem as I had gone through, as well as the desire fix. A big thumb up for VWvortex, for its great knowledgebase, although I did not benefit from it directly in this particular incident problem (Now I would really appreciate accessing Vwvortex using my GPRS in the future!)

One particular thread in VWVortex actually threw in some insights with regards to the detail technical cause of the problem. Intrigued by the insights, I decided to do a full anatomization of the faulty brake switch, for the sake of knowledge gain, and of course the itch to tear out the parts!

The steps to anatomize the brake switch

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1. This step is optional, but it makes the subsequent steps alittle more easier. First of all, remove the pin cover, by prying the pin cover groove alittle (as shown by the red arrow) so that the the pin cover can be slotted out in the direction indicated by the green arrow.

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2. Push in the pin stopper as shown by the red arrow, and push it out in the direction by the green arrow. When the pin is pushed out alittle, use a pen knife or equivalent to push the edge of the pin as shown in the diagram on the right.

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3. Pull out the pin as shown in the diagram. The fault lies on the pin itself, so subsequently steps are not necessary, but it facilitate a better understanding of the what, why and how of the problem and resolutions.

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4. You will notice there’s two tiny stopper, one on each side of the cylinderical-shape part. One of them is at where the pen-knife is pushing, in the diagram on the left. When the stoppers are pushed in slightly, pry and push up the round cover as shown in the diagram below.

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5. When the cover is taken out, a spring will sprung out, remove the spring

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6. Push the thin rod at the other end of the cylindrical block, and that pushes out the plunger as shown in the diagram below

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At this point of time, all the sub parts of the brake switch are dis-assembled, and it’s time to diagnose the mechanical/electrical function of the brake switch, and its point of failure.

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Item 6, I called it plunger, and the plunger rod actually stays in contact with the brake pedal mechanism. When the brake pedal is depressed, it will push the thin rod.

Item 2, with the spring, it creates some tension as the brake rod is being pushed by the brake pedal mechanism. Once the brake pedal is released, it also release the tension of the spring, which will then pushes the “brake connector rod” (item 6) back to its original position.

Item 1, 5 and 4 are just covers, serve no working functionality.

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Item 3, is the brake switch pin that connect and complete a circuit for the brake light and shift lock. Upon further inspection of the pin, I noticed that the back of 4 pins are aligned perpendicular to with the 2 horizontal metal strips. There is 1 tiny stopper on the otherside of each of these 2 metal strips. The 1st 2 pins are in contact each of the 2 metal strips respectively, creating a close circuit. When there’s something that pushes either of the tiny stoppers, it will result in open circuit for the affected pin.

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One of the circuit indicates turning on of brake light and shift lock, while the other indicates a turn-off.

The diagram above simulates how the item 6 (brake connector rod) stays in contact with the tiny stoppers on the pin via a notch at the bottom of connector rod.

Now, there are two possible point of failure.

PoF #1 One is where the two pins are not staying in contact with the corresponding metal strip, when the tiny stopper is not pressed down. You can inspect this possible point of failure when you take out the pin. In my case, the construction of the pin is still in working condition, so this is unlikely the point of failure.

PoF #2 The other is where most of the Vwvortexers commonly faced. The contact point between the pin and the metal strip is bad due to oxidisation of the metal. In my case, I notice that the metal strips are badly oxidised already, hence, even if contact is made, there might not create a close circuit.

Solution ? either you clean the oxidised contact surface with alcohol, or you invest US$15 for a new brake switch.

Other references

1. Brake switch removal (from car)
2. JE’s Brake switch repair

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