Changing of automatic shift knob, to certain people in Vwvortex community, is a taboo, or in a certain VW modification cult group, is socially unacceptable. Well, I must emphasized that such mentality only prevails in a small group of vwvortex'ers, fortunately.
Perhaps, the strong feeling against the act, is based on the assumption that anybody who attempt the modification is trying to be manual-stick wannabe. That to drive an automatic-transmission vehicle is a joke of century, at least to this unique group of interesting earth inhabitants. In the true spirit of Veedub modification culture, I am sure this is a fallible thinking.
Anyhow, not withstanding such a dark force, I decided to go ahead with the modification, although I am still in search for a well-styled aftermarket automatic shift knob.
1. Turn on the engine, and shift the gear to Neutral. In many versions of How-to guide, the instruction said D or gear 3 or 2. For 4-speed automatic transmission vehicle, it has
been verified that either of the modes mentioned is okay. This might not be the case if your vehicle is tiptronic transmission, and should stick to gear 3 as most has suggested.
2. Pull down the chrome sleeve that covers the shift shaft as shown on the left. This will unlock the gear, and the knob button will be loose.
3. Then press the knob button and pull out the knob with some amount of force.
If you inspect the shift rod closely, you notice that the only movable mechanism is the plastic rod that's contained within the shift rod. When you press the shift knob button (with the stock knob intact), it actually depresses the plastic rod, and mechanically unlock the gear during "P" and "N" position. Hence, one can conclude that for 4-speed automatic transmission vehicle, one can replace its stock shift knob with any universal aftermarket shift knob, since it does not have any tiptronic plate or overdrive mechanism.
Upon looking at the internal of the knob, you notice that there isn't any complicated mechanism in the knob button. The knob button basically will keep in contact with the tip of plastic rod when the knob is plug on the shift rod. The plastic cylindrical clip within the knob is designed to held and clamp on the shift rod tightly.
Tips: I realised that if the car is parked under scorch hot sun for a few hours, it will be easier to take out the shift knob. This is possibly because that the plastic clip inside the knob has expanded due to the heat, and hence make it easier to plug out the shift knob.
With the stock knob removed, I begin to hunt for a nice aftermarket automatic shift knob to replace, as my stock knob surface is starting to peel. I wanted to make sure that the DIY removal of stock knob is possible before I commit myself with a new aftermarket shift knob.
The hunt for the new shift knob is not easy. There's little market for automatic shift knob, and alot of nice shift knobs made by Rapid, Momo and Sparco are mostly for manual shift stick. I bump across OEM automatic shift knobs like those for Audi and Porsche, but they cost an arm (more than US$150). My choice was thus limited to the Momo automatic shift knob, as shown below.
4. Insert in the chrome cover bottom as shown in the picture.
5. Screw 2 allen nuts to the Momo shift knob such that they are flushed to the inner wall of the knob. The Momo shift knob comes with allen key and nuts, and the knob itself has 3 holes at the edge of the thread (as shown on the left photo) for one to screw the allen nut so that the knob can be firmly secured on the shifter shaft rod.
6. With the allen nuts in the knob, slot the knob into the shifter rod as shown on the left. Do not over-screw the allen nuts, otherwise the knob can not be inserted down the shifter rod.
7. With the knob sits nicely on the plastic shift unlock rod, turn the knob so that wording "MOMO" is aligned, and depress the knob slightly (not all the way round), and begin to screw the 2 allen nuts tightly. The reason of depressing the knob before screwing the nuts, is to have the knob as low as possible.
Knob is secured by 2 nuts, the 3rd allen nut is not required as it'll prevent the bottom chrome cover not able to cover the knob.
8. Screw in the chrome cover bottom, as shown.
and voila, a new aftermarket shift knob for my automatic gear transmission BORA.
I must confess, that I am not an audiophile. In fact, my hearing history has never been that good, and it can be vouched from a general hearing test conducted by my primary school, when I was a primary-3 school kid. I failed that test, as I couldn't differentiate between a buzzing sound and a hissing sound (okay, I exaggerated here), and at times had difficulty identify the source of the noise (left or right)! Some doctor says this is a lazy-ear medical problem, all I know is it goes along with my personal character very well (or as a result of my personality), where I am at times stubborn and insistent of my way…
Looking back at the entire dismantling process, I have to say the removal of the door panel is very easy, except for the first step, which can be a PITA! The first step, mother of all steps, is to remove the door handle as shown in the diagram on the left. As I started to pry open the door handle, I notice the inner side of the handle has been abused by the distributors during the servicing & repair trips previously. Nevertheless, the trick is to use a soft flat pryer to insert behind the door handle, as indicated by the red arrow. When the handle is opened slightly by 5-10mm, start moving the pryer to the lower right side of the handle and slowly pry open the entire bottom of the handle. Once you have pryed the bottom of the handle by 0.5inch wide, pull out the handle with a jerk as it is snapped on by 2 clips shown in the diagram below, by the 2 green arrows.
Once the outer side of the handle is removed, the next step is to unscrew 3 torx screws at the bottom of the panel, and 1 philip screw at the right side of the panel, as shown in the diagram on the left. The 2 diagrams below give a closeup view of the torx screw and philips screw position respectively. Use a torx-15 to remove the 3 screws below, and a small philip screw driver to remove the screw, which is located just below the front tweeter speaker, due to the space constraint.
At this point of time, the panel is not completed detached from the door yet, as there are some wirings and cables that is stilled attached to the inner side of the door panel. Unplug the window lifter harness connector, as shown in the diagram on the left. Next, unhook the door lock cable, which is hooked to the door lock assembly, as shown in the diagram below (left). Unclip the retaining clip, and pull the cable forward (towards the front as indicated by the green arrow, and out of the catch as pointed by the red arrow) so
When all these cables and hook are removed, the door panel is now hanging on the top edge of the door with its rubber lining. Lift up the door panel, focusing on the 3 arrows in the diagram on the left, and the door panel is now taken out completely.
Door open light assembly, is made up of various plastic parts, which produce some low frequency rattling noise when it's shaked slighly. 
The door unlock handle assembly is secured to the inside of the door panel with four clips and a philips screw. It's secured, but due to the rubbing of the plastic clips and the door assembly's plastic edge, I suspect there could be some rattling created as a result, if the car is rolling on an undulated road.
I notice the retaining clip is loose, that plastic piece might have rattled against the door panel or the hook catch. 
While removing the panel, the speaker's rubber cap is loose. While this is not a source of rattingly (rubber is the least suspect in all rattling noise), it could create some distorted noise when the speaking is outputting loud music.
With all these possible faults, I use some OWS liquid spray, which rubberised the sprayed surface to reduce unnecessary abrasion that causes rattling. This is the one of the products I used when I try to eliminate the rattling noise at the console area. This is not the best or ideal rattle elimination product, due to its stickness characteristic (that causes the sprayed area to be sticky while it is wet or lubricated). But it serves its purpose, and hence I have not considered those 3M sponge adhesive tape, which could be used in some of the fixes. 
